Why I love Surfing

1. Movement.

Not a big surprise from a future dance / movement therapist, right?! The movement of the waves, the movement of paddling and pushing my body up on the board to stand, and the process of letting the ocean's energy move me through the water is like nothing else. It's a dance on water and an improvisational act. Each day the conditions are different, each wave is different, and each surf spot is different. I never know if the water will be crowded, what sea life and creatures will show up (or how they will behave), what the exact water temperature will be, or if I'll be able to catch a wave at all.

2. Ocean/Water.

My mother would take my sister and me to the beach when we were fighting a lot as children, saying in recent years that it was to "chill us out." It worked. And still does. Like a mother rocking her baby to sleep, the lapping of waves on the shore is a tranquil sound, and calm waves can create a rocking and holding quality of movement that is nourishing to my body and my mind. I still go to the ocean to clear my head, and I always feel better.
Water is healing. There's nothing revolutionary about that, the ancient Romans knew to take baths to cleanse, and Scandinavians still partake in dipping their bodies in freezing cold water temperatures after sweating profusely in saunas. Of course, we can't forget about Turkish baths or the cleansing rituals of the Japanese or Mikvot in Jewish culture.

3. Confronting the Unknown.

Waves can be very big and very scary. Many people die in the ocean. Many times while paddling out, I feel my body being aggressively pushed and pulled in a way that is totally out of my physical control. When the bigger sets come through, I find myself duck diving or pushing through the white water (for the smaller waves), hoping to not get rocked or too pummeled. I like to be in control in dark, cold, and wild waters. But I also love the feeling of confidence and joy I get when I confront these unknown conditions and fears. These are rare occasions when I am actually proud of myself.

4. Connecting to Nature.

Fresh air and exercise are a great combination, and to get both of while in the ocean is pure delight. Sunshine doesn't hurt, either. To quote a friend,

"There is something so tranquil and revitalizing about being in a body of water that connects all across the world…"

And it's no wonder that I find surfing, like dance, therapeutic. Like dance and movement on the earth and land, it's improvisational, healing, nourishing, and connecting. Growing up near the ocean, I've seen how surfers can become happily addicted to surfing in the ocean, their calm demeanors shining like a halo around their heads.

Since I am interested in alternative therapies, I did a little research and found:

The Jimmy Miller Foundation in Southern California uses Ocean Therapy to work with mentally ill children, and the Paskowitz family's Surfers Healing teaches children with Autism to surf.